INTRODUCTION:

Allium sativum, family Alliaceae has been reported to possess antixidant, antimicrobial, antitumour, antimutagenic, antiinflammatory, antiviral and antiulcer properties. ¹ Garlic and its extracts have been used to treat infections for thousands of years. ² Allicin (the name being derived from that of the garlic species Allium sativum) is considered to be the main biologically active antimicrobial phytochemical produced in garlic extracts, and was first recognised as such in 1944. ³

Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. Shampoos have primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. Selected ingredients of shampoo that have been popular with the consumer are currently under attack because of potential risks associated with their use (e.g. halogenated organic compound, formaldehyde, musk fragrance and crude coal tar). ⁴

Formulating cosmetics using completely natural raw materials is a difficult task. The challenge lies in selecting materials that can be rationally justified as ‘natural’ and formulating them into cosmetics whose functionality is comparable with their synthetic counterparts. ⁵ Selecting the evaluation parameters of a shampoo is a challenging task, simply because of the multitude of both subjective and instrumental test methodologies available for this purpose.⁶ A more radical approach in popularizing herbal shampoo would be to change the consumer expectations from a shampoo, with emphasis on safety and efficacy.

MATERIAL AND METHODS:

Bulbs of Allium sativum (garlic) were collected and authentified by the herbarium of University Institute of Pharmacy, Pt. R.S. University, Raipur and used for the preparation of extract. Extract was used for shampoo formulation. Potassium hydroxide, glycerin, ethyl alcohol, methyl paraben, lemon grass oil , coconut oil , olive oil, castor oil were purchased from Loba chemicals.

Expression of Allium sativum bulbs:

200 grams of bulbs of Allium sativum were taken and expressed in hydraulic press (Remi Motors) and the active constituents were removed with distilled water. Filtered with muslin cloth and filtrate was allowed to centrifuge at 2000 rpm. The supernatant was collected and incorporated in the shampoo base formula.

Preparation of shampoo:⁷

Coconut oil, olive oil and castor oil were saponified with potassium hydroxide using reflux condenser. After complete saponification, glycerin was incorporated with stirring followed by mixing of garlic extract. Ethyl alcohol, methyl paraben used as preservative and lemon grass oil used for masking the pungent smell of extract. Four different formulations F1, F2, F3 and F4 were prepared taking 5%, 10% , 20% and 30 % w/w of extract respectively as shown in table I given below

Table 1: Composition of formulations of shampoo

Composition of shampoo formulations	F1	F2	F3	F4
Composition of shampoo formulations	% w/w	% w/w	% w/w	% w/w
Coconut oil	10.0	10.0	10.0	10.0
Olive oil	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0
Castor oil	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0
Potassium hydroxide	3.0	3.0	3.0	3.0
Glycerin	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0
Ethyl alcohol	4.0	4.0	4.0	4.0
Allium sativum extract	5.0	10.0	20.0	30.0
Lemon grass oil	0.05	0.05	0.05	0.05
Methyl paraben	0.01	0.01	0.01	0.01
Distilled water q.s.	100	100	100	100

CHARACTERISATION:^8,9

Prepared 1% v/v solution of shampoo formulations by mixing, 2 milliliters (40 drops) of shampoo with 200 ml of distilled water. The shampoo was taken in the beaker and then slowly added distilled water. After thorough mixing of shampoo and water all the evaluation parameters were determined.

pH:

1% shampoo solution was used to determined the pH by using the pH meter (Elico 243 Sl. No. 1320/2006)

Percent of Solids:

Weighed a clean dry evaporating dish and recorded the initial weight of evaporating dish. 4 grams of shampoo formulation (not the 1% solution) was taken in the evaporating dish. Weighed the dish and shampoo and recorded Initial weight of shampoo and dish. Calculated the exact weight of the shampoo only and recorded the Initial weight of shampoo only. Put the evaporating dish with shampoo on the hot plate until the liquid portion has evaporated. After drying, weighed the dish and shampoo solids and results were noted.

Foam Formation (Shake Test):

Test C and Test D are done together make sure your read Test D before you start.

Took 50 ml of the 1% shampoo solution in a 250 ml graduated cylinder and recorded the volume. Then covered the cylinder with hand and shaken 10 times. The total volume of the contents was recorded after shaking. Calculated the volume of the foam and recorded the size of the bubbles.

Foam Quality and Retention:

Immediately after the Shake Test (Test C), time was recorded. Recorded the volume of foam at 1-minute intervals for 5 minutes as depicted in the Figure 1.

Surface Tension:

Prepared 1% v/v solution of shampoo by mixing 2 milliliters (40 drops) of shampoo with 200 ml of distilled water. The shampoo was taken in the beaker and then slowly added distilled water. After thorough mixing of shampoo and water the surface tension was measured by using stalagmometer (Borosil Pvt. Ltd.).

Skin irritation test:

Applied the solution of prepared shampoo on skin and kept for 5 min and observed for redness of skin and irritation there, were no any red coloration and the irritation to the skin

Visual stability:

The prepared shampoo was tested for the visual stability for 21 days at room temperature with relative humidity 65±5, and observed for color change and pH. There were no changes in color and pH of shampoo within 21 days and no any phase separation between oil and water.

Viscosity:

Viscosity was determined by using the Ostwald viscometer (Borosil Pvt. Ltd.).

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:

The results of visual inspection of series of formulations are listed in Table 1. As can be seen, all formulations were clear and had the good characteristics with respect to foaming. The main challenge with this formulation was of characteristic smell of A. sativum extract. With less concentration, i.e. formulation F1 and F2 were free from characteristic smell and were acceptable, but in F2 and F3 the smell was observed.

Table 2: Evaluation of Formulations for physical appearance, pH , Solids and viscosity

Formulation Code	Physical Appearance	pH	Solids (%)	Surface tension (dy. /cm)	Viscosity ( Poise)
F1	Clear, good foaming, no characteristic smell	6.22 ± 0.01	23.21± 0.02	38.45 ± 0.22	6.5±0.2
F2	Clear, good foaming, no characteristic smell	5.82 ± 0.03	24.52± 0.01	37.25 ± 0.45	6.1±0.4
F3	Clear, good foaming, slight characteristic smell	5.53± 0.04	25.23± 0.02	39.23 ± 0.13	5.8±0.1
F4	Clear, good foaming, characteristic smell of extract observed	5.01± 0.02	25.41± 0.04	39.87 ± 0.15	5.4±0.2

The pH of shampoos has been shown to be important for improving and enhancing the qualities of hair, the current trend to promote shampoos of lower pH is one of the ways to minimize damage to the hair. Mild acidity prevents swelling and promotes tightening of the scales, there by inducing shine. ¹⁰ As seen from table 2, all the shampoos were acid balanced and were ranged at pH near to the skin pH. On increasing the extract concentration the acidity of the formulation increased. The result of percent of solids contents is tabulated in table 2, and was found between 23-26%. As a result, they were easy to wash out. If the shampoo has too many solids it will be hard to work into the hair or too hard to wash out. ⁹

The foam quality and stability of formulations were observed as depicted in figure 2, the volume changed from 115 to 59 for F1, 125 to 67 for F2, 110 to 55 for F3 and 107 to 52 for F4 in five minutes. All the formulations showed good foam quality and retention but the range was F2>F1>F3>F4. As foam production and retention is very important with respect to consumer palatability and acceptance hence it becomes important evaluation parameter for the formulations

Figure 1: Change in Foam retention volume with respect to time

It has been mentioned that a proper shampoo should be able to decrease the surface tension of pure water to about 40 dynes/cm ¹¹. Surface tension values obtained were 38.45 ± 0.22 for F1, 37.25 ± 0.45 for F2, 39.23 ± 0.13 for F3 and 39.87 ± 0.15 for F4. As observed in Figure 2 maximum reduction was by formulation F2 having 10 % of extract. The reduction in surface tension of water from 72.8 dynes/cm to 37.25 dynes/ cm by the herbal shampoos is an indication of their good detergent action.

Figure 2: Surface tension of various shampoo formulations

The viscosity was in the range 5-6 poise which indicates the great fluidity, which makes formulation easy to apply on and easy to spread on hair. Formulated shampoos did not show any skin irritation on application showing the safety of the constituents present.

CONCLUSION:

As seen from the results, it is possible to formulate a natural herbal shampoo by using garlic aqueous juice which has antimicrobial and antifungal activity that is better approach with respect to various shampoos having synthetic chemicals as antimicrobial agents. From the above study it was concluded that all these preliminary physico chemical and stability studies suggested for utility of herbal shampoo with economy and consumers compliance.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

Authors are thankful to Department of Science and Technology for financial assistance under FIST scheme (SR/FST/LS1-013/2010) and Director University Institute of Pharmacy, Pt, Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur [C.G.] for providing laboratory and all other facilities required for this work.

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Received on 10.02.2011 Accepted on 20.03.2011

Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2(1): Jan. –June 2011 page 18-20

Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Shampoo Containing Extract of Allium sativum

CONCLUSION: